Washington State
SEPTEMBER 2025
Thurston Wolfe Winery vineyards
Let's take a month to celebrate our local wines and a couple of Washington producers making great wines at every day prices, which is no small feat we'd like to emphasize.
But first, a tribute to our local producers! Since we started Portalis in 2003, WA State has gone from 159 licensed wineries to 2050 in 2024. Washington is the 2nd largest wine producer in the US after California. We have 400 grape growers growing more than 80 different varieties. In 2003, Washington had 5 AVAs. Today we have 21. See the map for details.
credit: Washington Wine Commission
Trends over the last 20+ years:
Here's what we've noticed:
1) Red wines moved from medium- to full-bodied with a return over the last years to leaner reds. Oak followed that trend as well. It went up, up, up and now it's less prominent, even in higher end reds.
2) Untraditional blends are on the rise — and so fun! This creativity makes the Europeans squirm, but we love it. It's differentiating, the wines taste great, and it seems to keep the price down. Note: your club red is an untraditional blend!
3) Competition is fierce! With so many smaller wineries, most started self-distributing (Tony Dollar used deliver Lobo Hills on his motorcycle back in the day), then they moved to using distributors, but with the uncertainty in the distributor market and the problem of getting lost in a company's book (a real problem!), many have returned after COVID to self-distributing. Some smaller wineries don't distribute at all; they just have their wine club!
We know that the fantasy of making wine and working in the wine industry is a dream for a lot of people. We hear this all the time. But most of these guys work their butts off to barely get by. So hats off to them for loving the work and making such great wines.
And a special thank you to the wineries that make delicious wines at everyday prices. Your club is showcasing two of these wines: a Pinot Gris/Viognier blend from Thurston Wolfe and a red blend from Lone Birch Wines. Enjoy!
Thurston Wolfe Winery
Prosser
Wade Wolfe is one of the Washington State pioneers! He got his Ph.D. in plant genetics from UC Davis in 1976 with his thesis on grape genetics. We joined Chateau Ste. Michelle from 1978-1983, ending as Director of Vineyard Operations. He consulted in the mid-80's, forming Thurston Wolfe Winery with his wife, Becky, in 1983. From 1991-2004, he worked at Hogue Cellars, first as a Viticulturist and then as General Manager. In 2004, he moved full-time to Thurston Wolfe Winery as winemaker.
In addition, we was the director/president/chair of the Washington Association of Wine Grape Growers, Washington Wine Advisory Committee, and he's currently a board member of Wine Yakima. As well, he has published numerous articles about the Washington wine industry in Wines & Vines, American Journal of Viticulture and Enology, Washington State Grape Society Proceedings, Oregon Horticultural Society Proceedings, and he's active in Washington State University seminar proceedings. Give it up for Wade Wolfe! He's had a substantial impact on Washington winemaking.
Pictured above with his wife, Becky, and son, Josh, who's the Sales Manager at the winery.
Thurston Wolfe 2024 PGV • Yakima Valley, Washington • Reg $19.99 | WINE CLUB $17.99 | Mixed Case $14.39
Viognier 51%, Pinot Gris 49%. Floral notes (jasmine) on the nose with some peach & tropical fruit. On the palate, it's luscious with good acidity. Flavors of peach, nectarine, lime & citrus, with a nice dry finish. No oak. Just fruit. Delicious to sip. Great with dinner. Salmon, halibut, trout, shellfish, seafood in general. Spicy, chicken tacos. Asian dishes with some heat. You name it....
Lone Birch Wines
Yakima Valley
"In the shadow of the Rattlesnake Mountains stands the 70-year-old Lone Birch Tree, providing shade to vineyard workers, a landmark to travelers, and inspiration to generations of descendants of Howard Miller, entrepreneur, successful realtor, and visionary. Miller, a nature lover and steward of the land in the Yakima Valley, planted the tree to inspire future generations to care for the environment, shrink the carbon footprint, make sustainability a goal of the farm, and provide a source of pride and living for generations of his family. In addition, his dedicated efforts led to the region’s wine growers’ ability to access high mountain water through the creation of the Roza Irrigation Canal." –distributor's notes.
Howard's son, Don, continued in the business, founding Airfield Estate Winery, which is where the Lone Birch Wines are made today.
Lone Birch 2022 Red Blend • Yakima Valley, Washington • Reg $16.99 | Mixed Case $13.59
Fun *untraditional* blend of Cab, Syrah, Cab Franc. Little herbal, spice on the nose with fruit of black- & blueberries. Flavors are velvety smooth — red & dark plums, note of cassis as you go, coffee notes on the finish. Wonderful acidity. Medium-bodied. Smooth, sort of Right Bank Bordeaux style. Drink now to 2 years. Enjoy with everyday fare: burgers, pizza, grilled meats, and more. Jens: Best WA red for the money in the shop right now.
A Note from Jens:
Your wine club pickup tasting is always the 2nd Saturday of the month. Join to taste and learn about your club wines before enjoying them at home. Your Washington wines are going to wow you!
You'll be able to taste the FLAGSHIP club wines as well. Our September theme is Meet Three Italian Wines (that you may have never heard of): Fiano (from Campania), Conero (from Marche), and Susumaniello (from Puglia). Hope you can join us! Great tasting.
Cheers,
Jens Strecker, Owner
Portalis Wine Shop
If you are here because you’re curious about our wine clubs: Here’s more general info & online sign-up. You can also peruse the last 12 months of both clubs to get a feel for the themes we pick and the wines we showcase: Portalis EXPLORES (our everyday wine club) & Portalis FLAGSHIP (our signature club).